Top makeup artists on what not to do if you want younger-looking skin—and the tricks that really work
By Lindsy Van Gelder, Allure
Roger
Cabello
|
1. Base that's too light
Foundation that's paler than your natural skin tone exaggerates
fine lines. "Even if you have ivory skin, you need to go a little bit
warmer as you get older," says Linter. Switch to a hue that's one or two
shades darker and has luminescent particles, such as Giorgio
Armani Luminous Silk: "A light-reflective formula makes the skin look
like it's glowing," says Davis.
2. Thick foundation
"Heavy makeup is a one-way ticket to looking older than you
actually are," says makeup artist Chrisanne Davis. Choose a sheer
foundation or tinted moisturizer (such as Laura
Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20), and after you apply it, press a damp
makeup sponge into areas where you have wrinkles to soak up any excess. While
the less-is-more maxim may seem counterintuitive, "the more skin you can
see, the better," says makeup artist Sandy Linter. "As long as it is
well-hydrated, fresh skin looks much more youthful than an obviously covered
complexion."
3. Blush on the apples of the cheeks
It draws attention to sagging skin. Instead, apply color on the
highest point on your cheekbones, not too close to the nose, and lift it upward
with a brush that's large enough to cover the whole cheekbone. Skip the drama
queen shades, too: "Colors like wine and cinnamon will only make you look
gaunt if you're thin and clownish if you're not," says Linter. "A
neutral rose color flatters all skin tones and really brightens things
up." (We like Nars
Blush in Mata Hari.)
4. Face powder on top of lines
Powder is fine for reducing shine on the nose and the chin, but
on other parts of the face it exaggerates wrinkles and can make skin look too
dry, says Linter. The only time Linter dusts powder on clients over 40 is when
she knows they're being professionally photographed (a loose translucent
formula does help cut glare), but even then, one unbreakable rule still
applies: Avoid the eye area completely.
Roger
Cabello
|
5. Major lipstick
Bright colors, dark shades, and anything metallic or iridescent
are too heavy for thinning lips. Instead, choose a neutral rose shade. And
consider switching from a lipstick to a sheer gloss — it will give you more
fullness.
6. Lipstick that migrates
Your natural lip line can begin to fade as you age, which makes lipstick
more prone to bleeding and feathering. "Tracing it with one of the new
clear lip
liners can help the color stay put," Davis says. (Mally
Beauty Lip Fence does the trick.)
7. Eyeliner on the lower lashes
All that does is make your eyes look smaller and draw attention
to dark circles. Stick to the upper lids-and make the line thicker toward the
outer corners, where eyes have a tendency to droop as we age. (Try Elizabeth
Arden Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil.)
8. Mascara on the lower lashes
It highlights crow's-feet. And dark circles. And it just
generally looks bad. Coat your top lashes with the blackest black mascara you
can find-"it will make the whites of your eyes look clearer and
whiter," Linter says. It's also best to avoid superthick formulas that
don't separate easily. Lashes get dryer as we age, making mascara more likely
to clump and fall onto your face. (Try Cover
Girl LashExact Mascara or Lancôme
High Définicils High Definition Mascara.) And don't forget your curler.
"Curling your lashes is the easiest thing you can do to make your eyes
look bigger-and therefore younger," says Davis. (We love the Shu
Uemura Eyelash Curler.)
9. Sparkly shadow on the outer corners
A little shimmer is flattering and keeps eye makeup from looking
too stark, but at the outer corners, it magnifies every fine line. Restrict sparkle
and shimmer to the inner corners, the centers of the lids, and just on the brow
bones.
10. Heavy concealer on dark circles
The skin under the eyes gets thinner as we age, making thick
cover-up look like concrete. Keep it light (we like Lancôme
Effacernes Waterproof Protective Undereye Concealer), and apply it with a
brush. "The brush distributes the color more evenly," says Linter.
And put it only on dark areas, not under the entire eye.
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